Riga

Riga is the most northerly capital city in the European Union.
The city, known as a cultural centre is home to many museums and concert halls. It’s also known for its wooden buildings, art nouveau architecture and the medieval old town.
Latvia’s capital is set on the Baltic Sea at the mouth of the River Daugava and is the place where the first ever decorated Christmas tree was recorded in 1515.
It wasn’t easy to travel between to the Baltic countries by train. A direct train route wasn’t possible until the day I left Riga when a train route from Riga to Vilnius was launched. You can travel by bus between Riga, Tallinn, Kaunas and Vilnius.

The Corner House
The Corner House is a former KGB headquarters now turned museum and exhibition.
After the Soviet occupied Latvia in 1940, the building was adapted for the purpose of interrogating and incarcerating opponents of the communist regime. The Soviet fled in 1941 and came back again in 1944 and again took over the building until 1991.
During this period the KGB initiated 48 000 criminal cases for “Anti-Soviet offences”. When Latvia regained its independence, the KGB was declared a criminal organization and abolished in Latvia.
After the Soviet era, the state police took over the Corner House in 2007. It stood abandoned for years until it open to the public for guided tours in 2014.
The museum is free but It’s worth paying to do the guided tour. The stuff you learn about the things that went on in the building and so forth. You can tell they’ve barely touched anything here. You can feel the chills inside the interrogation room, and the smell of damp when you walk through the corridors.
So much have they maintained the authenticity of the place that children under 12 aren’t allowed on guided tours.
Guided tours cost €15 or €5 for students.

Riga Central Market
Riga’s Central Market is Europe’s biggest market.
The market is in one of the more noticeable buildings from the 20th century which was included in UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998.
When I first entered the market, I didn’t think much of it. You go through produce tents and the butcher shops. The first building I went into wasn’t the busiest, however there are five buildings and in one of them you see the independent street food areas.
It was one of my favourite places to eat. I usually eye up what I want but I needed several visits here to try what I could.
This included when I stopped off in Riga on my way to Kaunas from Tallinn when I had a three hour wait. It was a few minutes walk from the bus station so what better way to spend it than eating in here?

Doma Laukums
Ok so this bit applies mainly if you’re visiting Riga during the Christmas period.
Doma Laukums is the largest square in Riga’s Old Town. It’s known to be the heart of the city and central to cultural and historical activity.
It’s the location of one Riga’s two Christmas Markets. It’s not the biggest Christmas Market but one that’s still worth a visit.
Especially when you visit one for the food. I’m struggling to think of a better pulled pork burger I’ve had. It came with ham, cheese and mayo. I was gutted when I went back the next day to find out they sold out. They slow cook it for 15 hours. It was love at first bite.
There is another Christmas Market in Esplanade Park which is a 10 – 15 minute walk away. I walked around once and carried on. It wasn’t on par with Doma Laukums never mind being better.

Skyline Bar
If you’re into a cocktail in a skyline bar with a panoramic view of the city then look no further than Riga’s skyline bar.
I like a skyline bar, the tranquil atmosphere of them, and the chance to unwind with a cocktail in hand.
You need to go to the Radisson Blu which is fairly close to the KGB headquarters.
Order your cocktail, sit back and enjoy.



The Panorama Riga
If you want another alternative place for a panoramic view of Riga, head to the Latvian Academy of Sciences’ building.
It’s located 5 minutes from the Central Market and entry costs €8.
It’s 65m high and you’re treated to unobstructed views.
It wasn’t packed during the day time which you might come to expect during a December day in the Baltic region. I couldn’t imagine the same if there was a sunset.

Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs
Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs (which translates to folk club cave in the basement) is an authentic Latvian tavern in the old town offering a modern twist.
Located in ancient wine cellars, there are over 30 types of beer to choose from as well as their home brewed traditional moonshine where flavours include their horseradish moonshine, which no I did not try!
You get to experience culture, music, traditional Latvian food and watch locals part take in Latvian dance evenings and music concerts in between the old vaults.
The food alone is worth coming here. The people you meet, the evening you’re going to be treated to. There is so much on offer here than you imagine.
If you’ve got limited time in Riga and you’re stuck for ideas on how to spend your evening, you’ll do a lot worse than coming here.
It’s one of the most unique places you will visit.


Jurmala
Jurmala is a resort town known for its wooden art nouveau seaside villas and the long sandy Jurmala beach. In fact Jurmala is the largest town on the shores of the Baltic sea and has a 24km long beach.
Now I get what you’re probably thinking, why would someone go to a resort area during the Christmas/New Year period in the Baltic region.
The answer to that is a spa place which is apparently popular, so why not head out of the city and do something different. Admittedly the spa place wasn’t anything special though it was nice to go somewhere to unwind.
Jurmala gets busy in the summer time. Unsurprisingly it’s nowhere near busy during the winter months. I’d never walked on a frozen sandy beach but it was a nice feeling not getting sand in your shoes.
The good news is the beach is near the train station. Jurmala is 25km from Riga and the train journey takes 35 minutes.

I really liked Riga, it’s a fun city and not expensive.
You don’t need more than a few days to explore. I wouldn’t hesitate coming back but I’d go in the summer because if you’re not a fan of the cold then you’ll be in for a shock.
The old town is nice to walk through and you’ve got plenty of places to enjoy a drink in the area. Even walking outside of the central, you’ll come across some cool independent coffee shops
Just don’t do what I did and come unprepared. Even if you think you’ve prepared, take more because you can never be over prepared.